While everyone complains about steak and roasting joints, a far more “ordinary” meat has slipped into near-luxury territory in France, according to new figures from consumer group UFC-Que Choisir. The association’s latest analysis of 2025 food prices shows a sharp rise not only in beef, but in veal – a meat once served routinely in family kitchens.
Everyday meat, suddenly not so everyday
In French supermarkets and butcher shops, shoppers are already used to high prices for prime cuts. Many people have switched to cheaper options such as beef chuck, pork shoulder or chicken thighs for slow-cooked dishes.
These cuts still allow families to make generous stews and casseroles without blowing the weekly budget. Yet the UFC-Que Choisir report shows that even the “ordinary” meats people rely on are climbing fast, and veal is now firmly in that category.
What used to be a modest, home-style meat for blanquette or pan-fried escalopes has edged into the “think twice before buying” bracket.
The shift has been gradual, which helps explain why many consumers only feel the squeeze at the checkout, without realising exactly which product is to blame.
Beef up 10% in a year, and veal follows
The association examined daily price data from 5,500 supermarket drive-throughs across France. Based on this large sample, it concluded that beef prices rose around 10% in 2025 alone.
This jump is not happening in isolation. It is part of a broader structural change in French cattle farming that affects both beef and veal.
Fewer cows, fewer calves, tighter supply
UFC-Que Choisir points to two main drivers behind the price surge: a shrinking number of cattle farmers and repeated animal health crises. Herds are getting smaller, and the profession is struggling to renew itself.
France has lost about 15% of its cows in eight years, roughly 1.1 million animals, according to the association’s figures for 2016–2024.
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With fewer dairy and beef cows on French farms, there are naturally fewer calves available. Veal comes from young animals, so any drop in the mother herd hits veal supply quickly.
The group’s data shows veal prices rising even faster than beef: about 12% in 2025. Historical data from the national statistics office, Insee, underlines how far things have moved. In the early 2010s, veal escalope typically cost around €20 per kilo. Today, shoppers are closer to €30 per kilo.
A profession in crisis: who will raise the next herd?
Behind the numbers sits a human story: fewer people want to be cattle farmers. Long hours, volatile prices, heavy investment and strict regulations make the job less attractive to younger generations.
UFC-Que Choisir notes that in 2021, only about half of beef cow farmers who stepped back from the job found a successor. When no one takes over, herds are sold or reduced, and the local supply chain thins out.
- Older farmers retire without replacement
- Herd sizes shrink across many regions
- Domestic production drops, especially for beef and veal
- Imports step in to fill supermarket shelves
This dynamic pushes two trends at once: more imported meat in French supermarkets, and rising prices for meat clearly labelled as French in origin.
From Sunday blanquette to occasional treat
For many French families, veal brings back memories of childhood: slow-cooked blanquette, creamy sauces, and generous meals at grandparents’ houses. It used to be an affordable centrepiece for family lunches.
Today, that image is fading. With prices reaching the level of many prime cuts, veal has shifted toward the “special occasion” category. A kilo of veal escalopes can now rival or surpass the cost of a decent steak, pushing budget-conscious households to look elsewhere.
The quiet outcome: fewer veal stews on weeknight menus, and more chicken, pork and plant-based dishes filling the gap.
This change echoes a broader move in European diets, where families adjust not just to health recommendations but to price shocks. When one type of meat climbs too high, consumption patterns adapt quickly.
How this price spike hits the family budget
Price increases in basic proteins can reshape a weekly shop. Veal is not as central as chicken or minced beef for many households, but its rise contributes to a feeling that traditional home cooking is becoming less affordable.
Take a simple comparison based on current French prices:
| Product | Approx. price per kg | Typical use |
|---|---|---|
| Chicken thighs | €4–€6 | Roasts, tray bakes, stews |
| Pork shoulder | €6–€9 | Slow-cooked dishes, pulled pork |
| Beef chuck | €12–€16 | Boeuf bourguignon, pot-au-feu |
| Veal escalope | €25–€30 | Pan-fried escalopes, blanquette |
For a family of four, a veal-based meal can easily cost double or triple the price of a chicken or pork dish, just for the meat. In a period of high energy and housing costs, that difference weighs heavily on decisions at the meat counter.
Why other countries should pay attention
Although these figures come from France, the situation highlights trends that resonate in many countries, including the UK and US. Ageing farmers, climate pressure, disease outbreaks and low margins all push people away from livestock farming.
Whenever herds shrink, a familiar pattern tends to appear:
- Domestic production declines
- Imports from countries with lower costs increase
- Consumers pay more for local labels and traceable origin
For shoppers who care about animal welfare standards or environmental impact, that creates a difficult choice between price and principles.
Key terms and what they really mean
Reports like that of UFC-Que Choisir often mention “cheptel” and “éleveurs”, terms that may sound technical.
“Cheptel” refers to the national herd, the total number of animals of a given species in a country. When the French cattle herd shrinks by 15%, it does not just mean fewer cows in one valley. It signals a broad, long-term shift in capacity, with consequences for meat, milk, and all the industries linked to them.
“Éleveur” simply means livestock farmer. When only half of beef farmers find someone to take over, that points to a structural problem, not a temporary blip. Once the expertise and infrastructure disappear, rebuilding them is slow and costly.
What households can realistically do
Faced with climbing veal and beef prices, many families are tweaking menus rather than cutting meat entirely. Some examples are easy to apply in a weekly routine:
- Replacing veal in stews with chicken or turkey, which absorb sauces well
- Using smaller quantities of beef or veal alongside pulses such as lentils or chickpeas
- Choosing cheaper, slower-cooking cuts and planning ahead for batch cooking
- Reserving veal dishes for occasional meals, while leaning on more affordable proteins day to day
In financial terms, swapping just one veal-based family meal per week for chicken can save several hundred euros a year in France. Similar logic applies in other countries facing steep meat price rises.
These shifts, repeated across millions of households, feed back into demand. Over time, they may accelerate the transition toward less meat-heavy diets, whether or not that was the intention. For now, though, the stark fact remains: the “ordinary” veal that once simmered endlessly in grandmother’s pot has quietly slipped out of the bargain category.