Cod used to be the go-to option for an easy, healthy meal, but its price has climbed relentlessly. Behind the scenes, Michelin-starred chefs and savvy home cooks have already moved on to a close cousin with a gentler price tag and a surprisingly refined flavour.
The cod problem: a family favourite that became a luxury
For years, cod has been the safe bet on the fish counter. Its pearly flesh, mild flavour and flaky texture make it a weeknight staple served with mashed potatoes or pan-fried vegetables.
That comfort now comes at a cost. In many European markets, fresh cod fillets can sit around €28 per kilo, and similar price pressure is felt in the UK and US for quality cuts. A lot of the cod on offer is imported, often frozen at sea, then thawed before hitting the counter.
Cod has become a premium fish, with demand outstripping the capacity of wild stocks and limited volumes from farms.
Most cod sold in Western Europe is trawled in the cold waters of the North-East Atlantic and off Norway. Wild cod is highly regulated to protect shrinking stocks, which tightens supply. Farmed cod exists, mainly in Norway, but production volumes remain modest compared with salmon.
The result is familiar to anyone who shops for fish: people either trade down to cheaper species, buy smaller portions, or head to the frozen aisle and opt for supermarket own brands.
The affordable stand-in chefs already swear by
While many home cooks hesitate at the cod counter, high-end kitchens have long embraced a cheaper alternative: hake.
Known as merlu or colin in French and widely landed in the Atlantic and parts of the Mediterranean, hake has quietly climbed restaurant menus while staying accessible in price.
Hake can cost two to three times less than cod, yet its delicate flesh regularly appears on Michelin-starred plates.
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In France, the two-star restaurant Lalique, located in the historic Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey, serves hake as a signature dish. Chef Jérôme Schilling features hake from Saint-Jean-de-Luz, gently confited and paired with bergamot and elderflower. The combination shows how comfortably this “budget” fish sits in a luxury setting.
On many Spanish and Basque tables, hake has been treated as a noble fish for decades. British and American diners are catching up, helped by rising cod prices and a growing interest in lesser-known species.
What makes hake different from cod?
At a glance, hake fillets resemble cod: white, mild and boneless when properly trimmed. On the plate, though, the texture tells a slightly different story.
- Cod: flakes into large, distinct pieces that separate easily with a fork.
- Hake: has a closer, more “tight-knit” flesh that many chefs find more refined.
Some tasters describe hake as sitting somewhere between cod and salmon: white like cod, but with a silky quality closer to fattier fish. It stays moist if cooked gently and carries delicate flavours such as citrus, herbs and floral notes remarkably well.
Chefs like hake because it behaves predictably in the pan: it holds together yet stays tender, without drying out as quickly as lean cod.
Where hake comes from and what that means for your wallet
Hake is widespread in the North-East Atlantic, including waters off Spain, France and the UK, and there are related species in the southern hemisphere and the Pacific. It is also caught in parts of the Mediterranean.
This broader geographic spread, combined with stronger stocks in some areas, helps keep prices lower than cod. On many European markets, hake can sit near €10 per kilo for whole fish. Fillets and loins cost more, but still undercut cod by a wide margin.
| Fish | Typical use | Approximate price trend |
|---|---|---|
| Cod | Traditional family meals, fish and chips, branded frozen fillets | High and rising due to pressure on wild stocks |
| Hake | Restaurant dishes, everyday white fish, Mediterranean and Basque recipes | Moderate, often 2–3 times cheaper than cod |
For budget-conscious shoppers, that gap adds up quickly. A family of four swapping cod for hake once a week could save several hundred pounds or euros over a year, especially if they buy whole fish or larger pieces to portion at home.
How to cook hake so it shines
Hake prefers gentle cooking. Its fine flesh can fall apart if overhandled, but with a light touch it rewards you with a very tender texture.
Simple weeknight ideas
- Poached hake with vegetables: Simmer fillets in a light broth with carrots, leeks and a splash of white wine. Finish with lemon and parsley.
- Pan-seared hake with mash: Pat fillets dry, season, then cook in a hot pan with a little oil and butter for a crisp exterior and soft centre.
- Baked in foil packets: Wrap hake with cherry tomatoes, olives and herbs in parchment or foil. Bake until just cooked and serve with crusty bread.
When the flesh turns opaque and just begins to flake, it is done; going much further can rob hake of its gentle texture.
The fish pairs well with creamy purées, from classic potato to celeriac or parsnip, and with quickly sautéed greens. Its neutral taste also makes it suitable for children or anyone who dislikes “strong” fish flavours.
Restaurant-style touches at home
Borrowing cues from fine dining, home cooks can play with aromatics and gentle fat to elevate hake:
- Confit it at low temperature in olive oil, then serve with citrus segments and fresh herbs.
- Serve with a bergamot or lemon zest condiment for a bright, perfumed edge.
- Pair with seasonal vegetables, such as asparagus in spring or roasted squash in autumn.
Nutrition, sustainability and what labels to look for
Like cod, hake is naturally low in fat and high in protein. It supplies B vitamins, selenium and some omega‑3 fatty acids, though oily fish such as mackerel or sardines remain richer in those fats.
Not all hake stocks are equal, so sustainability labels matter. Certifications from reputable schemes, or clear information about where and how the fish was caught, can help consumers back healthier fisheries. Line-caught or well-managed trawl fisheries tend to score better.
Choosing hake from well-managed fisheries can ease pressure on cod while still giving access to mild, versatile white fish.
Practical tips for buying and using hake
At the fish counter, fresh hake should look slightly translucent with a clean, sea-like smell. The flesh should spring back when pressed lightly. Whole fish should have bright eyes and red gills.
For those used to cod, a gradual switch can feel easier:
- Start by using hake in sauced dishes, such as fish stews or curries, where texture changes are less noticeable.
- Move on to simple grilled or pan-fried fillets once the family is familiar with the flavour.
Home cooks who batch-cook can portion and freeze hake much like cod. Wrap tightly, label with the date and use within a few months for best quality. Thaw slowly in the fridge to avoid mushy flesh.
Why chefs love hake for testing creativity
For chefs, hake offers an interesting balance: it is affordable enough to appear on set menus, but subtle enough to showcase technique. Its delicate flesh responds visibly to changes in temperature, timing and seasoning, which makes it ideal for precise cooking.
For home cooks, that same sensitivity can become a small training ground. Paying closer attention to doneness, seasoning and pairing teaches skills that transfer to cooking almost any fish. Replacing expensive cod with hake does not just ease the food budget; it can also gently raise everyone’s game in the kitchen.